Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Mid-day snack

This is the first attempt of a hopefully ongoing mini-project to share simple recipes from the Caleu farm. Nothing too fancy, just to show how much one can do with very little. For daily meals, most of the ingredients I have to work with come from the farm's organic gardens and chicken coop, nearby roadside produce vendors, and the small shop next door. These limited resources call for a little more creativity in the kitchen.

To give you an idea of how mere proximity and interaction with the origins of what you eat can change the way you appreciate food(I know most of you are well aware of this but bear with me), here's an excerpt from a recent email to my sister:

"...By far my favorite thing about the farm is the food. I have the freshest carrots, lettuce, onions, etc. at my fingertips. Vegetables and fruits whose growth and final ripeness I (and of course Carlos, my gardening mentor) presided over with religious watering and weeding. I guess you could say it's like the sweat of my labor is a metaphorical fertilizer, cultivating the unconditionally loving bond between nurturer and nurtured. Like children I've raised so closely and with such diligence. And then I eat them. There is a lady next door who bakes fresh bread every Saturday in a stone oven outside her shop. She also sells locally made goat cheese. To prove that I'm not just throwing around the term 'local', she doesn't even refrigerate the cheese. It came from so close and will likely be consumed so soon thereafter that those extra measures to preserve just aren't necessary . There are chickens and a couple ducks on the farm that give us fresh, tasty eggs everyday. You look at food in a whole new beautiful light when it's acquired within less than half a mile of where you sleep. When I'm in Santiago, I have millions of options at the supermarkets, but all I ever want when I'm there is a simple meal made on and from the farm..."

Caleu Egg Sandwich

toasted bread (bread baked by neighbor, can substitute with bagel or english muffin)
tomato slices (tomato bought from local roadside vendor)
goat cheese slices (locally made)
fried duck egg (from farm)
chopped green onion marinated in lemon juice (picked from garden)

Enjoy with a glass of cranberry juice!
(juice concentrate from cranberries grown south of Santiago)

Sunday, January 17, 2010

God is bigger than your problem.

reverse aerial view from Santa Lucia hill

Apologies for the long gap in posting. After the holiday break, I came down with a fever and viral throat infection, which kept me incapacitated for a couple weeks. Since I was practically bedridden, that time doesn't make for the most interesting blog material. These are pictures taken before and after my self-imposed quarantine.

By the way, being horribly sick for an extended period is just about one of the shittiest things that can happen while abroad- apart from being murdered, gang raped, or being told to go back to China because we don't need more of your kind here (okay not on par with the first two, but still unpleasant). It's bad enough that this debilitating virus gives you a painful idea of what it's like to consciously decompose, but you have to go through this bullshit in a place where everything is unfamiliar and no one will baby you.

Kamille Goes to a Private Hospital in Chile

When I returned to the farm after the holiday, my mild fever turned into crippling fatigue, cold sores, and a painfully sensitive mouth and throat. Eating solid foods was excruciating. By solid foods I mean it was a struggle to swallow oatmeal without pushing back tears. With a self-torturing iron maiden for a throat, I stuck to juice boxes, strawberry milk, and chocolate milk. Naturally, I lost some weight. But besides enjoying a creepily awesome, effortlessly sculpted Olson-twin body, I couldn't function on a constantly empty stomach. I could barely read [joke about dumb skinny models?], and I sure as hell couldn't write a coherent article from Spanish to English in less than two hours. So I couldn't work.

I took a bus back to Santiago to see a doctor, spending US$60 on an emergency room visit for the doctor to tell me what I already knew from consulting the internet. Not to mention the added frustration that he spoke no English and my Spanish medical vocabulary could use some expanding. Vital information- an accurate description of my symptoms and explanation of his diagnosis- could have been lost in translation. He wrote me a couple prescriptions for painkillers and cold sore cream. The cost of the medical visit and drugs totaled about US$100. Luckily my medical insurance reimburses the cost of emergency room visits, but this was the first time I'd ever had to pay, at least for now, out of my own pocket for health care. A common virus, basic treatment, one hundred dollars.

Back in the States, I blindly enjoy being covered by my parents' health insurance. Because I could see a doctor and acquire medicine without ever knowing the actual cost (save for a trivial co-pay), I could maintain the delusion that medical care didn't have a price tag at all. As a kid, it's easier to disassociate something as socially dividing as money with something as supposedly universal as wanting to be healthy (or wanting to live)- when you don't see a price tag.

So imagine my surprise, when I walk into the waiting room of the Santa Maria private clinic, take a number, walk up to one of the neatly uniformed ladies seated like travel agents at their desks, and see a big fat list of prices for emergency room consultations openly displayed on the wall like a fucking fast food menu. Each price corresponded with the nature of the visit. If you were conscious and could walk, congratulations you get the cheapest rate. If it's likely to be a neurological emergency, you're fucked. Simple, direct, in clean block lettering. There's no delusion about it; this is a business with services to sell.

I'll take combo #1 with a side of consciousness. (A poorly framed shot but you try discreetly taking photos in a hospital waiting room with a steady hand.)

My visit took no longer than 20 minutes. That's a $60 visit in 20 minutes. Although we don't know the overhead included in these costs, keep in mind $60 is the cheapest consultation rate and duration is not factored into the price. That said, here is a far-fetched and obscenely oversimplified equation to ponder : If visits average 20 minutes, costing $60 each, the hospital theoretically receives $180 an hour. If I'm a bored, particularly capitalistic doctor, I can boost productivity on this hospital assembly line by shaving minutes off each visit. I can manipulate the system to my advantage if I go through patients faster. Consult, scripted small talk, diagnose, repeat. Shit I could whittle that sucker down to 5 minutes inflating my income to a whopping $1800 an hour. I'm not saying that my doctor was hurried or inconsiderate, but these were the irrational concerns that crossed my mind now that I knew the price tag. I was an ailing patient and a discerning consumer.

After that waste of money and what little energy I had in my food-deprived noodle of a body, I picked up the prescriptions at a nearby pharmacy. Having to pay the full price for my drugs, I wrongly cursed Chile for the exorbitant prices. Once again I learned I was paying actual costs. It wouldn't have been any cheaper in the US. This is the true cost of drugs without the help of government subsidies (to keep drugs affordable) or the mask of insurance (ignorance is bliss).

To the average American middle-class college student, $100 is a lot of money. To the average working Chilean, 100 US-fuckin'-D is a lot of money.

If I didn't have insurance, if I had to spend $100 of my own hard-earned money, I probably would have stayed in bed and prayed that the undiagnosed suffering will go away on its own. I wonder how many people have to make that decision(especially when it involves thousands of dollars), in countries (that's you, home country) where public clinics are scarce and the few that exist are understaffed, poorly funded, and/or can barely provide the bare minimum of medical procedures (penicillin for all!).

I'm better now. And I think I prefer to know the costs. It's a healthy reality check.

Presidential elections in Chile were this past Sunday. The center-right millionaire won, breaking the 20 year leftist coalition's hold on the government. Woot.

Viejos playing chess at the Plaza de Armas

concert at Plaza Brasil

They danced with the crowd.

Bellas Artes. Oldest fine arts museum in South America

Following typical Chilean Catholic tradition, reminding you "God is bigger than your problem." Cool, thanks.


More pictures soon!

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Fish in a flower.

The sunflowers are starting to bloom! A welcome surprise when I came back to the farm after a couple weeks on holiday. And even more exciting, when I turned the corner to admire my favorite flower, I could've sworn I saw two extraterrestrial, time-travelling goldfish frantically trying to leap into my dimension and epoch through the flower's center. But this was only light tricks, my dazed state, and the defensive geometric patterns on the fluttering wings of these two butterflies. For an instant though it was trippy maaan.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

New Year in Valpo

sea lion lounging

Valparaiso is a hilly port city about two hours west of Santiago. Colorful houses stack and recline along the 42 hills that hug a cold and windy bay. To climb the hills you can either weave through alley stairways or take the diagonal route on antique elevators that are as mundane a mode of public transport as the bus system. The beaches that dot this populated stretch of coast (there are many beach towns nearby that could easily be mistaken for Valpo sprawl) unite scalding hot sand with ass-numbingly cold water that's surprisingly clean for a port city. Poet, Nobel prize winner, Chile's most notable bon vivant, Pablo Neruda bought a house here, constantly adding rooms that he filled with treasures from his friends and own travels. One of my personal ideological heroes, the first democratically elected socialist president IN THE WORLD (suck on that Europe)Salvador Allende, lover of peaceful revolution and coconut ice cream, also hailed from here.

click-click-click-click-click

What's special about this city is that there doesn't seem to be any superficial attempt to cultivate an image. Yes Lonely Planet has to convince travelers of it's value, a personality must be compacted into so many words (travel blogs are guilty of this too), so you'll hear of Chilean poets, artists, the ideologically prolific residing here. They say locals are friendlier and more care-free than their Santiaguino counterparts. But you don't sense that the city is desperate to convince the world of this. Which is why, on our first day, I didn't think there was anything special about the place. Everyone and every guidebook said the place is so damn wonderful, so unique. Well, I've seen this backdrop before. The condensed clusters of colorful houses aren't so original (see Guanajuato, La Boca in Buenos Aires, even some neighborhoods of grimy Lima have joined that bandwagon). Other than that, Valpo seemed like any other big dirty city in Latin America. I was proud of my hastily concluded, against-the-grain opinion, but after a few days I started to see the city's unflaunted charms. The meticulous graffiti that tell stories as you descend the hills, the snaking alleys and staircases that don't apologize for an oscillating terrain, the brightly painted facades that transform poverty into quirkyness. Barely any gift stores strive to capitalize off the packaged image of their city with cheap souvenirs. Valparaiso is cool and composed because it really doesn't care what you think.

Here is where you'll find Latin America's biggest New Year's Eve party. Not only was it the New Year, but the change of the calender also marked Chile's (and most of Latin America's) bicentennial anniversary of independence from the Spaniards. Nearly a million visitors came to Valparaiso for the celebration, crowding the streets, funneling into plazas, leaving confetti and champagne bottles in their wake. At midnight, a half hour panoramic fireworks display over the bay. At 12:30 a.m., jubilant mayhem. Bars and clubs overflow. Kisses and dancing must move to the streets, the music is in the laughter and slurred ramblings of a drunk multitude. The party's featured guest- a robust full moon, validates the night's glory and amplifies the madness. The amorous pair up, cuddle and fall asleep on the grass in the park. By some divine respect for this joyous occasion, no one is hurt by the broken glass that seems to be EVERYWHERE. Strangers hugging, with glazed smiles wishing the other a happy one. The most hopeful, indiscriminately loving morning of the year.

good luck finding your friends (photo cred. Sarah Hassam)

"Kamille, you need more girl friends"


everyone and their babysitter's lover came to the beach that weekend

Chorillana (aka heart attack on a plate): French fries, topped with hot dogs, sausage, grilled meat, fried egg, and cheese.

Happy New Year.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

around Santiago

local artists

take it out on the laundromat

Christmas in Santiago

a deceiving angle at a park in Providencia, 84 degrees F.
a traditional expatriate Christmas dinner: Chinese takeout

Sunday, December 20, 2009

becoming a cat person.

Carlos, my gardening mentor, made me this chair from reeds. He's a genius.

Some random pictures from around the farm. After a while in the country, when you spend all your time within the same 4 acres, you find pleasure in simple things. The rapid growth of basil sprouts, a good sized stick making the perfect addition to the strawberry patch border, misplaced oddities in the dirt. The world shrinks and so does what it takes to call it a good day.

Look in the greenhouse...

Sowing cucumber seeds

Lookadem basil! They're getting so big.


Monday, December 14, 2009

a humble abode

The garden shed, where I live, sleep, craft, dream, scheme when not writing or gardening...
I occupy a curtained-off corner of the garden shed. Why don't you step into my office baby...
...natural light, a private space, the lap of luxury...
...the less you need the more you have......beat up speakers stored away and forgotten become my new state-of-the-art entertainment center...
...and of course, to pull it all together...

Most who know me, know I can never truly call a place home until there is some kind of twirling paper and string contraption hanging over my bed. Ah yes, paper cranes, Simon & Garfunkle, chirping crickets, a good night's rest. This video really shouldn't have been longer than 10 sec. Sorry about the poor sound and visual quality.